Thursday, December 30, 2010

"delicious and unbelievable unfetishly feminine..."

...were the words of my dear friend Snowlady when I showed her the (btw. again bad) pictures of my grey wool corset.

Yes, Ladies and Gentlemen, it's finished.
Finally.
Last Thursday, with my mind already half on my weekend at my parents' and half on setting the grommets in the corset, it occured my (while brushing my teeth^^) that I had comepletely forgotten about the back modesty panel. So I quickly hauled out the sewing machine again and attached the binding on it, too. Good thing I had the triangle-corner of wool from cutting the bias tape left, and it made perfect bias strips for the modesty panel.
That's what happens when you bury important things under a pile of paper pattern pieces, fabric and embroidery stuff *lol*

However this left me with the grommets to do after a very relaxing weekend with my parents. I hope you had some nice Holidays, too?

So yesterday I put in the grommets and the lace today. I went with plain black corset lace tipped with silver aglets for now. Maybe I can find some grey lace later to replace it.
But enough talking, on with the pictures (I know you wanna see them ^^)



It fits well and quite comfortable, still the bust looks a bit weird. I'm not sure if maybe giving a bit more room at the top edge will make a smoother silhouette. The cups are nice, but I might set the bustline a tad higher the next time, as there's a little bit of space under the sidebust left and dragging the shaping higher might help.
But I really like the general shaping and the positions of the seams. Also the hip gore is really cool and provides a nice hipspring.
Next time I wanna try to work with boning channel tape as I got some ugly puckering from the clipped seam allowances when I pushed in the bones... also the wool was quite tricky to press in this case. I guess it's time I make myself a nice tailors ham. The sleeve board just doesn't do it for things like corsets anymore ^^

Ah well, next I wanna make an 1880s underskirt to wear under the planned fantailskirt, which will be done afterwards. We'll see how it'll work out ;)

Okay, that's it for today
I already wish you a Happy New Year, have a great time celebrating!

Wednesday, December 22, 2010

I can see an end... & Merry Christmas

Hello my fellow readers!

Another three weeks have passed already and the world is in full blow Christmas mood.
So before I will give you a little update on my corsetry work, I want to wish you all a

Merry, merry Christmas!

I hope you'll have a great and peaceful holiday season with your beloved ones.
May Santa be good to you, too ;)

Okay, now up to the small update...
The winter trousers for my Mom's uncle are all shipped and fit (according to him) very well *yay*.
So after being done with them I went on with the grey woolcorset.
I did the top flossing and attached the bias binding.
flossing with the binding pinned on the inside

with attached binding from the outside
and from the inside

So now all it needs are the grommets and the lacing. Unfortunately I haven't found a matching cord/ribbon yet. All the grey stuff I found was usually too light to match the wool. If anyone has an advice on where to look for a lace, please don't hesitate.

I'm afraid that's already all for now.
So enjoy the Holidays and I'll see you next week (hopefully).

Wednesday, December 1, 2010

I'm alive and working

Hello my dear readers,

I'm very sorry for not posting here for so long. I hope you didn't worry and if you paid a litte attention to the sideboard's work in progress list, you could see an update evey now and then.

So in the meantime I did a little progress with the grey wool corset. I pushed in all the bones and also started on the flossing.
First I made a little sampler with different flossing designs. a) to try out how the embroidery floss would go through the coutil and b) to decide which design would match the whole corsetry design best.

I then decided for the last one, as the narrow threads matched the embroidery best.
So I got started with the inner ends of the bones at the hip gore and then went on with the lower edge flossing. The upper edge will come next as soon as I find time again.

In the meantime I have been working on the pants for my Mom's uncle. No.1 is already shipped and according to the uncle it fits like a glove *yay* He said he didn't get them off after trying them on until bedtime *lol*
No.2 I finished last Sunday after cutting it and No.3 on Saturday evening. No.3 is in progress. The sideseams are done and I hope to finish up next week.
This weekend my parents will visit, so I won't be able to do anything till Tuesday.
But instead I will hopefully get a new desk with more working space under my bed. *wohoo*

Okay, so far with this little update.
Thanks for your patience, I hope to update more often again...
Stay tuned for more.

Saturday, October 23, 2010

Number one done...

Hello my dear friends,

you might have already read it in the progress-list on the right, that I'm done with the pink black underbust corset.

Last weekend I finished the boning channels of the grey wool corset, defined the upper and lower edge on both corsets, measured, cut and tipped the bonesfor both , pushed them into the pink-black one, sewed the edges closed, trimmed of the excess fabric and set on bias the binding (handfinished on the inside), during the week I put in the grommets and the lacing.
But let pictures speak:
wool corset with defined edges 
pink-black underbust with defined edges
bones for both corsets (a few are already in the underbust)
underbust with closed edges
excess trimmed off
bias pinned on
sewing on bias
handfinishing bias on the inside
widening the holes with an awl
pushing the grommet in
adding some fray check
putting the washer on it
prrrrreeessssssss
grommet from the outside
finished from the outside
from the inside

Today I took a few pictures on the dress form... unfortunately the quality is rather low :(


Also those stupid wrinkles are annoying me, I can't tell yet how to get rid of them the next time... sewing on the boning channels on a hipspring that strong is really hard and it probably caused the wrinkling... clipping and trimming the seamallowance didn't help at all... also the bone placing in general serves the wrinkling...darn.
Any suggestions on what to make better next time or how to allter the pattern?

Also I took some really crappy pictures of me wearing the corset:



I'm not sure if it's just because the corset isn't broken in yet, but there's some slight gapping at the side seam. I hope it will lay smooth once the flatsteels in the back are molded to my shape a bit and lacing gets easier. Also it feels as if the bones are digging a bit in at the top and bottom, but that may also because the bones are still too stiff and my flesh is too soft ^^
The wrinkling is also there :(
But I really like the feeling how the spiral bones in the front mold around my ribs and dig into the waist a bit to give some more hourglass feeling. It feels nice :)

Okay, tell me what you think.
Thanks for watching, see you next time.

Sunday, October 10, 2010

Each millimeter counts...

Hey my friends!

Sorry, it took me so long, but I didn't make such a great progress over the last couple of weeks and I haven't been in blogging mood, as I had to ramble every night about my current intern in the shop and her weird mind...
Anyway I'm back now and I brought a few pictures as well.
In my last post I mentioned that I had started to handbaste the layers of the grey wool corset together. This task then filled my free time for almost a week. Not because I'm so slow, but because I didn't find so much time in the mornings to do it.

After that was done I went back to the pink-black underbust corset and pinned the boning channels on. Pushing the pins through the satin coutil channel, the crepe satin and another layer coutil is not nice for your fingers, let me tell you ^^. But I guess that's my own fault, as I'm using the steel pins without glass head.
When I then started sewing the channels on it turned out more difficult that I had thought. Finding a presser foot where I could manage to get the distance to the channel edge right and regular took alot of trying and unpicking. And even with the right foot and a guide bar it is not as easy as it always looks to get a straight, clean stitchingline. Especially on curvy seams.
So after a felt 1000 meters of unpicked seams I finally got done with the external channels yesterday and attached the lining. Today I pressed those last joining seams and stitched the remaining boning channels at the CF and CB.
The result:
and although it's nowhere near perfect (I really need a better machine that feeds evener), I dare showing you a close-up:
The next step would be to measure, cut and tip the bones, but I will do this in one go with the bones for the grey corset as a hurting hand once is enough ^^.


So I switched to the grey thread and started sewing the inner lines for the bone casings on the wool corset. Turns out here my adjustable zipper foot workes quite well with the distance. On the coutil channels it always slipped off, that stupid thing *lol*
So I have to see, if I can get the channels done before my Mom's uncle will drop by with his pants order. I don't know how many he wants and how they are exactly made, so I can't tell yet how long it will be keeping me busy. Also I hope to fit some time in this week to sew my wool jacket at work. I don't wanna take it home with me to prevent the dust bunnies, I have enough here already and have to clean in the shop anyway ;).

Okay that's it for this time
Have a great new week

Monday, September 27, 2010

Little by little

Hey guys!
Not much progress last week again.
I sewed the satin coutil strips to channels. I used a width of about 1/2 inch (12.5mm) as I need almost 9mm to fit the 7/7.5mm bones inside and need another 1-1.5mm per side tp sew the channels on the corset. So 9mm+3mm is 12mm.
Then I pressed the boning channel seamallowance open on the middle of the back after trimming it to about 2mm.
Now I have 22 nice satin coutil boning channels to put on the pink crepe satin.


Saturday night I shortened a couple of pants for myself as I wasn't in the mood for corsetry. But then I decided out of boredom to pin the layers of the wool corset together along the seamlines.
This morning I started handbasting them together.
Yesterday I didn't do any sewing stuff, the weather was too bad ^^. So I cleaned out some drawers of my side board and went to the open day of the Semper Opera later in the afternoon. The weather was still bad and I didn't want to stand in the line in the rain to get into the Opera itself. So I only went to the costume shop and it was sooo amazing. They had many pretty costumes on display, although that was just a fraction of the real amount of gorgeous costumes. I got to see under a few tutus and get to know their construction a bit better. One day I will make a tutu, too *lol* I'm still looking for a book to teach me, if anyone as a suggestion please don't hesitate!
I also talked to one seamstress there and the whole shop is soooo huge, so many sewing machines, so many cutting tables, so many.... you get it ;)

Okay, that's it for today.
Have a great week

Monday, September 20, 2010

Little progress

Hello my lovely readers!

I know I have been mia this last week, but not much happened on the corsetry front so far.
Last week I used the cleared table to take a pattern from my fave jeans. They have become really thin in the seating area, beyond repair, so I took it apart and drafted the pattern around the pieces. Then, after a good 5 years of use I threw the pieces into the garbage bin. :´( I only kept the back pockets and one front pocket facing as fabric sample.
Yesterday afternoon (after sleeping in after a nice night out clubbing with my current intern) I got out the sewing machine again.
I stitched down the seam allowances of the pink black corset, joined the lining pieces and cut 22 strips of satin coutil. This morning I sewed them up to form boning channels.

Otherwise I'm almost through the first volume of "Fashions of the Gilded Age" and I'm starting to understand some ways of those draperies *lol* It's really its own science *g*

Okay, that's it for today
See ya soon