Monday, September 27, 2010

Little by little

Hey guys!
Not much progress last week again.
I sewed the satin coutil strips to channels. I used a width of about 1/2 inch (12.5mm) as I need almost 9mm to fit the 7/7.5mm bones inside and need another 1-1.5mm per side tp sew the channels on the corset. So 9mm+3mm is 12mm.
Then I pressed the boning channel seamallowance open on the middle of the back after trimming it to about 2mm.
Now I have 22 nice satin coutil boning channels to put on the pink crepe satin.

Saturday night I shortened a couple of pants for myself as I wasn't in the mood for corsetry. But then I decided out of boredom to pin the layers of the wool corset together along the seamlines.
This morning I started handbasting them together.
Yesterday I didn't do any sewing stuff, the weather was too bad ^^. So I cleaned out some drawers of my side board and went to the open day of the Semper Opera later in the afternoon. The weather was still bad and I didn't want to stand in the line in the rain to get into the Opera itself. So I only went to the costume shop and it was sooo amazing. They had many pretty costumes on display, although that was just a fraction of the real amount of gorgeous costumes. I got to see under a few tutus and get to know their construction a bit better. One day I will make a tutu, too *lol* I'm still looking for a book to teach me, if anyone as a suggestion please don't hesitate!
I also talked to one seamstress there and the whole shop is soooo huge, so many sewing machines, so many cutting tables, so many.... you get it ;)

Okay, that's it for today.
Have a great week

Monday, September 20, 2010

Little progress

Hello my lovely readers!

I know I have been mia this last week, but not much happened on the corsetry front so far.
Last week I used the cleared table to take a pattern from my fave jeans. They have become really thin in the seating area, beyond repair, so I took it apart and drafted the pattern around the pieces. Then, after a good 5 years of use I threw the pieces into the garbage bin. :´( I only kept the back pockets and one front pocket facing as fabric sample.
Yesterday afternoon (after sleeping in after a nice night out clubbing with my current intern) I got out the sewing machine again.
I stitched down the seam allowances of the pink black corset, joined the lining pieces and cut 22 strips of satin coutil. This morning I sewed them up to form boning channels.

Otherwise I'm almost through the first volume of "Fashions of the Gilded Age" and I'm starting to understand some ways of those draperies *lol* It's really its own science *g*

Okay, that's it for today
See ya soon

Sunday, September 12, 2010

Cao - 86 points...

Hello @ all!

So this was me yesterday after the apprenticeship diploma ceremony:
Do I look like a happy graduate or do I look like a happy graduate? ;)

I do look like a happy graduate, because I am =)
I made a great 86 points in my exam, and thinking about all the flaws it had, it's really good.
It's a "good" result and proves that my work is just as good as from a "real" trained dressmaker. I even had more points than at least two of the other examinees. *woot*
Now I just need to convince the rest of the world that my skills are quite equal to the others'.
At least I got many compliments on my embroidery again and also on my bag. On our way to the ceremony place people looked at me like I was an alien *lol*

Most of the other girls were there, too and few of them also wore their exam outfits.

But maybe I should give you a chronilogical overview of the day...
So in the morning I went to the hair salon to get my hair pinned up. I brought my hair piece, but the hair dresser thought my hair was enough, also as I didn't wanted it to become too huge. So she curled my hair and pinned it up.
Unfortunately my hair is really heavy so the curls hung out quite fast. I guess I'd need a ton of special hair products to keep it curled, not so good for my head...
Anyway I liked the hairdo and it was appropriate for the event.

When I got home an hour later, my parents had arrived and Mom was making the "mysterious" lunch. It was what I had suspected... our all time family favourite... (s)mashed potatoes and chopped kidneys.
I know that many (or better most)of you will think that's urgh, blech, eek or yuk, but I can assure you that it tastes really good the way my Mom makes it. I can be really picky on food and my sister was even more when she was younger, and even she likes it ;)
I'd never eat it made by someone else or in a restaurant... only made by Mom where I know that much work, care and love was involved to make it soooo good *nammnamm*

However after lunch we got slowly ready and went into the city. We arrived there quite early, so the ladies told me to sign my registration and then we could go again and come back at quarter to 3.
We went to the nearby mall and did a little windowshopping to waste some time.

The ceremony itself was okay. Of course there were a lot of speeches, some good, some not so much. Even the headmistress of the town held a little speech and honoured the best graduate of the year, which seems to be a tradition. They then also had some weird comedian who was not very comical... they could have saved the money and time for him...
In the "official" part on stage only the best graduates were honored and given presents and stuff.
After that we were told to go a floor down and meet at the tables labeled with our craft where we would get our diplomas.
We met up there and all got our diplomas from the head of the examination board.
I only got this very bad picture. I had to brighten it alot to make you see something more, still it's really blurry. (Well I must have gotten my own crappy photographing skills from somewhere^^)
We all got an USB stick as present and a rose.

We left shortly after, as we wanted to go to the mall on the outer rim of the town (the one with IKEA ^^).
We shot a couple pics in front of the fontain near my house.
Here's one just of my outfit without the diploma:

Okay that's it.
Write to you soon, have a nice Sunday!

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Think pink

Hello my dear readers!

I'm very happy to see that I've got some more followers. Thanks for adding me and enjoy my blog :)

Tomorow afternoon is the apprenticeship diploma event and I'm really excited about what will go on there.
I hope there will be some of the other exam girls, too. I'd love to see them again.
Still I hope it won't take too long to give out the diplomas, I want to go shopping with my parents afterwards *lol*

So in the last days I worked a bit more on the pink-black underbust corset. I joined the fashion layer pieces and then had some trouble with the busk. I had to redo the outside seam as the panels came out a bit asymmetriacal. But then the seam was quite uneven and the thread tension somewhat lose. So I had to unpick the seam once more and this morning I set it again using a Microtex needle and a slightly higher upper thread tension. It worked much better, but I still had to correct the seam between the busk panel and the next to adjust the panel widths. It's still not perfect, but it's really hard to catch that half mm that's missing.

I also pinned the waisttape in place, which I will fix when sewing down the seamallowances to keep them in place before adding the external bone casings.

Well tonight I cleared my working table, or better I had to, as we will need the space when my parents are coming tomorrow and my Mom will bring some mysterious lunch... That's the downside of having only a studio apartment with one big table.
They are intending to arrive somewhen tomorrow morning, probably while I'm at the hair salon to get my hair pinned up. I bought a smaller butterfly clip for my hair piece yesterday evening and attached it to the hair. It looks much better now, and the new clip is only half as big and high as the original. So they won't need to cover it with a huge bulk of hair *lol*. Also I got some wax beads which I glued onto a plain hairclip today and I put some single beads on the head of some hairpins to be added into the coiffure.
This reminds me that I have to print out some hairstyle pictures for the hair dresser as we couldn't have a rehearsal pinning.

Okay that's it for today, I wish you a happy weekend already.

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Layer by layer

Hello my friends!

So Sunday I again spent working on my corsets. I joined all panels of the wool corset and assembled the layers.
At first I sewed all wool panels on the busk piece, but then I thought that it might be easier to handle under my machine (as I don't have a flat surface right arund it like on the babies with table) if I join all remaining pieces and put them on the busk panel all together then.
The hipgusset was surprisingly easy to sew in. With the help of some great instructions from Foundations Revealed and a lot of flair everything went smooth.

gusset set in
back view
the remaining seam closed
all pieces joined and the fashion layer complete
So this morning I attached the coutil layers to their busk panels and then fixed the waisttape on the outside of the layer (which will be hidden by a loose lining later) where it won't interfere while sewing the boning channels.

Next I will continue with the pink-black underbust as I have the black thread still in the machine.
Stay tuned :)

Saturday, September 4, 2010

It always starts...

...with a busk.

Hey my fellow readers!

Just a little update on my work.
This afternoon I set in the busk in both corsets and attached the waisttape while fixing the busk pieces.
Unfortunately the Satin Coutil is fraying easily when poked with an awl to push the studs through. I thought it'd be stronger :( But a bit Fray Check limited the damage a good deal. Still I'm a bit disappointed and fear punching in the grommets later.
Anyway here are pictures (I know you want them ^^)
It took me 2.5 hours as I had to think about how to assemble the different layers and where best to put the waisttape. You'd think it was easier when you have only two layers *lol*
Tomorrow I want to join all pices for the layers, we'll se how far I can get.

Other than that I have been studying the Gilded Age books some more. So many nice things and I want to make them all *lol* Well, not really all, but enough for a lifetime ^^.
Also I have been looking through some pics of dresses I have saved on my HD over the time and there again I so sooo many great things I'd like to make. Nice combinations and such.
Now I'd love to also make an overskirt for the fantailskirt, but I don't think I have enough fabric for that if I want to make a day bodice, a hat and a modern godet skirt already. So now I need to find a matching fabric. I need to go through my stash... it's not like I don't have any fabric here... to be honest it's over 230m of fabric, so there'll better be something suitable.
Please someone give me a 48-hour-day. So many things to do, sooo little time and space.

Btw. I discovered that most of the skirts in the book are fitting my size quite perfect *wohoo* The bodices are bigger around the bust, but oh well, I hadn't expected anything else ;) Good thing I'm trained in pattern making, it makes many things much easier.

Oh, and I went to my hairdresser today to make an appointment for Friday morning. I wanna get a victorian styled coiffure, something similar to what I had for the 2007 fashion show...
Maybe not all that big, but close... I already got my hair piece out of its braided state. It's hanging around here now, looks funny. I'm thinking about taking it off the big butterfly hairclip and rather sewing it onto a comb... what do you think?

Okay that's it for today
Have a great Sunday

Thursday, September 2, 2010

A little progress

Hello my friends!

So as the bag is finished, I progressed a bit with the corsets on my list.
You've already seen a sketch of the wool flanell corset, but I haven't shown you one of the pink-black underbust corset yet.
Here we go:
The fashion fabric is dark pink crepe satin with black satin coutil. I wanted to use the crepe satin for a corset since I moved out from home and that's how long the fabric had been sitting in my stash. It's overdue to make it now.
The corset will feature external bone casings - a first for me.
I'm not sure I can fit as much casings onto the front part as shown in the sketch, but I'll try my best.

I had cut the pieces already a while ago, while also cutting the panels for the wool flanell corset.
In the last days I managed to flatline the crepe satin onto the cotton coutil strength layer and this morning I cut a couple satin coutil strips to try out the needed width for the external bone casings.
casing samples
Other than that I've been studying the Fashions of the Gilded Age books on Sunday and every morning during breakfast... so interesting...

Okay that's it so far
See ya soon and thanks for reading