Saturday, October 23, 2010

Number one done...

Hello my dear friends,

you might have already read it in the progress-list on the right, that I'm done with the pink black underbust corset.

Last weekend I finished the boning channels of the grey wool corset, defined the upper and lower edge on both corsets, measured, cut and tipped the bonesfor both , pushed them into the pink-black one, sewed the edges closed, trimmed of the excess fabric and set on bias the binding (handfinished on the inside), during the week I put in the grommets and the lacing.
But let pictures speak:
wool corset with defined edges 
pink-black underbust with defined edges
bones for both corsets (a few are already in the underbust)
underbust with closed edges
excess trimmed off
bias pinned on
sewing on bias
handfinishing bias on the inside
widening the holes with an awl
pushing the grommet in
adding some fray check
putting the washer on it
grommet from the outside
finished from the outside
from the inside

Today I took a few pictures on the dress form... unfortunately the quality is rather low :(

Also those stupid wrinkles are annoying me, I can't tell yet how to get rid of them the next time... sewing on the boning channels on a hipspring that strong is really hard and it probably caused the wrinkling... clipping and trimming the seamallowance didn't help at all... also the bone placing in general serves the wrinkling...darn.
Any suggestions on what to make better next time or how to allter the pattern?

Also I took some really crappy pictures of me wearing the corset:

I'm not sure if it's just because the corset isn't broken in yet, but there's some slight gapping at the side seam. I hope it will lay smooth once the flatsteels in the back are molded to my shape a bit and lacing gets easier. Also it feels as if the bones are digging a bit in at the top and bottom, but that may also because the bones are still too stiff and my flesh is too soft ^^
The wrinkling is also there :(
But I really like the feeling how the spiral bones in the front mold around my ribs and dig into the waist a bit to give some more hourglass feeling. It feels nice :)

Okay, tell me what you think.
Thanks for watching, see you next time.

Sunday, October 10, 2010

Each millimeter counts...

Hey my friends!

Sorry, it took me so long, but I didn't make such a great progress over the last couple of weeks and I haven't been in blogging mood, as I had to ramble every night about my current intern in the shop and her weird mind...
Anyway I'm back now and I brought a few pictures as well.
In my last post I mentioned that I had started to handbaste the layers of the grey wool corset together. This task then filled my free time for almost a week. Not because I'm so slow, but because I didn't find so much time in the mornings to do it.

After that was done I went back to the pink-black underbust corset and pinned the boning channels on. Pushing the pins through the satin coutil channel, the crepe satin and another layer coutil is not nice for your fingers, let me tell you ^^. But I guess that's my own fault, as I'm using the steel pins without glass head.
When I then started sewing the channels on it turned out more difficult that I had thought. Finding a presser foot where I could manage to get the distance to the channel edge right and regular took alot of trying and unpicking. And even with the right foot and a guide bar it is not as easy as it always looks to get a straight, clean stitchingline. Especially on curvy seams.
So after a felt 1000 meters of unpicked seams I finally got done with the external channels yesterday and attached the lining. Today I pressed those last joining seams and stitched the remaining boning channels at the CF and CB.
The result:
and although it's nowhere near perfect (I really need a better machine that feeds evener), I dare showing you a close-up:
The next step would be to measure, cut and tip the bones, but I will do this in one go with the bones for the grey corset as a hurting hand once is enough ^^.

So I switched to the grey thread and started sewing the inner lines for the bone casings on the wool corset. Turns out here my adjustable zipper foot workes quite well with the distance. On the coutil channels it always slipped off, that stupid thing *lol*
So I have to see, if I can get the channels done before my Mom's uncle will drop by with his pants order. I don't know how many he wants and how they are exactly made, so I can't tell yet how long it will be keeping me busy. Also I hope to fit some time in this week to sew my wool jacket at work. I don't wanna take it home with me to prevent the dust bunnies, I have enough here already and have to clean in the shop anyway ;).

Okay that's it for this time
Have a great new week