So here it is, the promised corsetry post.
You might remember that in my post about the victorian underwear I mentioned to make more versions of the 1880s corset. One version being single layer with external cording and boning channels, the other being a double layer with both elements internal.
So a few weeks ago I started on them, plus another sample from my underbust pattern.
As they would be all made of the same off white coloured cotton twill, I cut them all together on one weekend.
While also working on renewing my offline portfolio I started sewing the pieces the other weekend. It took me the whole saturday afternoon and evening to get the external cording done for the single layer corset. I also sewed the boning channels, but that was not the time consuming part.
Yet I must say a big thank you to Jo from bridges on the body. Her awesome WIP of the 1880s corset probably saved me twice this time of trial and error as well as headaches.
So thanks a lot, Jo!
I basically stuck to her method by using a double, folded piece to place the first cord in and the proceed from there.
The boning channels sewn to tubes.
The next day I pressed the channels and started joining the pieces. I did the corded panels first to get over with them *lol*
Then the seams were pressed, topstitched and the seam allowances graded.
Next the boning channels were put over the seams. By Sunday evening I had all the casings on. Also I didn't baste them, but only pinned them in place. Worked fairly well.
However this was the result:
Last Saturday I started with the double layer corset. Again I did the cording first.
For this sample I decided to sew the channels first and then pull the cord through it.
This worked way faster than the external cording, as I could mark the channel lines on the backing piece and just follow them. (Still this doesn't mean that I didn't have to unpick a few rows and redo them ;P)
As you can see I cut off the seam allowances of the cording back pieces. I took this advice from Jo again to reduce bulk at the seams. The best idea ever. Even with just the backing layer and no cord it would have been too thick at the seams. So I only had one layer per panel and was able to joing the pieces pretty normal.
By Saturday night I had all four halves of the corset assembled.
The seams were pressed Sunday morning, the lining layer topstiched and the waistband attached. Then the busk was put in (again with tension issues, but this time I remembered to baste around the busk right away so unpicking and redoing the seam was no big problem), the back seam turned and the boning channels sewn.
So Sunday early evening I had the third corset ready for boning.
Those cups look huge for my small form *lol*
In the evening I put on another layer.
Cool, huh?I'm not sure about the final design for the embroidery. I need to try a few samples first anyway as I haven't done ribbon embroidery before.
Over the course of the last weekend and Monday I also finished my portfolio and only made a cover for the album yesterday and this morning (it had been too late yesterday to get out my loud serger, so I sewed it today).
Oh and I also *finally* started stitching together the mockup for the 1880s day bodice *yay* A quick throw over to check the very raw general fit looked quite well. At least it's not toooo big or small. ;)
Okay, that's it. Thanks for reading.
Comments, critique and advice are as always very welcome.
Goodnight, see you soon