Friday, August 19, 2011

Corset ³

Hello again!

So here it is, the promised corsetry post.

You might remember that in my post about the victorian underwear I mentioned to make more versions of the 1880s corset. One version being single layer with external cording and boning channels, the other being a double layer with both elements internal.
So a few weeks ago I started on them, plus another sample from my underbust pattern.
As they would be all made of the same off white coloured cotton twill, I cut them all together on one weekend.
While also working on renewing my offline portfolio I started sewing the pieces the other weekend. It took me the whole saturday afternoon and evening to get the external cording done for the single layer corset. I also sewed the boning channels, but that was not the time consuming part.
Yet I must say a big thank you to Jo from bridges on the body. Her awesome WIP of the 1880s corset probably saved me twice this time of trial and error as well as headaches.
So thanks a lot, Jo!
I basically stuck to her method by using a double, folded piece to place the first cord in and the proceed from there.

With a zipper foot sew next to the cord and keep the fabric tight to it. Repeat 7 more times to get 8 Cords in total. Then cut the lower part off and fold the other under to place the last cord in this fold.

Do this again on the remaining three corded panels.

The boning channels sewn to tubes.

The next day I pressed the channels and started joining the pieces. I did the corded panels first to get over with them *lol*
The remaining panels followed right after (it's amazing how quick the pieces of a single layer corset with 10 panels is sewn together^^). Note that the seam allowances go to the "fashion" side.
Then the seams were pressed, topstitched and the seam allowances graded.

Next the boning channels were put over the seams. By Sunday evening I had all the casings on. Also I didn't baste them, but only pinned them in place. Worked fairly well.
Monday night after work I put the busk in and sewed the front and back facings in place.
Unfortunately my new machine seems to have a problem with the thread tension everytime when I do the busk. Changing the needle and upper thread tension didn't help much. I guess for corsetry I will go back to my good old workhorse machine ^^. And only use this for decoration and maybe topstitching, as is is really neat here.
However this was the result:
These pictures were taken on Wednesday morning. In the meantime I had already started joining the panels for the underbust corset, the lining had been done Tuesday night, including topstitching, the shell was done Wednesday morning.

On Thursday night I attached the boning channel tape to the lining, so this corset was ready for boning and painting. For this I had already done a little colour tester.
It turned out a bit too pinkish for my liking, so I decided to get another orangey-er shade of red and mix them.

Last Saturday I started with the double layer corset. Again I did the cording first.
For this sample I decided to sew the channels first and then pull the cord through it.
This worked way faster than the external cording, as I could mark the channel lines on the backing piece and just follow them. (Still this doesn't mean that I didn't have to unpick a few rows and redo them ;P)
Although the corded effect isn't as strong as with the external piece it's still better than I had expected.
As you can see I cut off the seam allowances of the cording back pieces. I took this advice from Jo again to reduce bulk at the seams. The best idea ever. Even with just the backing layer and no cord it would have been too thick at the seams. So I only had one layer per panel and was able to joing the pieces pretty normal.

By Saturday night I had all four halves of the corset assembled.

The seams were pressed Sunday morning, the lining layer topstiched and the waistband attached. Then the busk was put in (again with tension issues, but this time I remembered to baste around the busk right away so unpicking and redoing the seam was no big problem), the back seam turned and the boning channels sewn.
So Sunday early evening I had the third corset ready for boning.
Those cups look huge for my small form *lol*
Tuesday morning (you might have noticed that we arrived in this week already ^^) I got my dolly a nice plastic dress and pinned the underbust shell on it. On Friday I had gotten the other shade of red, so I could start painting.
The first layer of red still wet.
In the evening I put on another layer.
I let it dry thoroughly and took it off this morning (well it actually was already yesterday, but we count it today as I haven't slept yet^^). Laying it flat the front has a nice colour effect from the wrinkles it had on the dolly.
Cool, huh?
I'm not sure about the final design for the embroidery. I need to try a few samples first anyway as I haven't done ribbon embroidery before.
Over the course of the last weekend and Monday I also finished my portfolio and only made a cover for the album yesterday and this morning (it had been too late yesterday to get out my loud serger, so I sewed it today).
Oh and I also *finally* started stitching together the mockup for the 1880s day bodice *yay* A quick throw over to check the very raw general fit looked quite well. At least it's not toooo big or small. ;)

Okay, that's it. Thanks for reading.
Comments, critique and advice are as always very welcome.
Goodnight, see you soon

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Blue linen dress

Hi @ all!

Again it took me so long to post here... I know, I know, I always promise to post more often, but somehow I never find the time to actually do it.

Anyway, today I want to show you the result of my little excourse into medieval inspired clothing.
The girlfriend of a friend asked me to make her a dress to wear at a medieval music festival in September. Though she didn't want a historical accurate dress, but something still appropriate to not feel out of place.

So we agreed on a design and I went to work. This is the final result:
A sweet atlanticblue linen dress with a long hood and a pointed hem, both trimmed with dark cream colored embroidered lacetrim. The front is closed with lacing in a matching color and handstitched eyelets.



We actually had planned on making machine eyelets, but just before I got to do the eyelets on the dress my machine kind of quit on me... It still sews, but it mashes up the decor stitches... something with the feed seems to be out of order, also there's a shuffling sound when sewing. Probably something inside shifted when it hit a bad spot on a corset recently... However the eyelets would have looked like curls, so we had the choice between handmade eyelets or metal ones. She decided on the handstitched ones, which I myself think was the right decision as they match the overall design the best.

My machine will go into repair soon, as I only got it in March/April there's warranty on it still. Good thing, that I still have my other two machines here ^^.

Speaking of corsetry, there will be another post within the next days. I haven't been lazy lately, but worked on three corsets in the last two weeks or so (time flies by too fast, I can't keep track). You can watch the progess in the list on the right as always.

Okay that's it for today, thanks for reading, see you soon.